The Stolen Soul | Autumn/Winter 17/18 Menswear 2017-09-22T06:14:34+00:00

Project Description

The Stolen Soul

Autumn/Winter 17/18 Menswear

Description:

The Woolmark Company first came across Wilson Choi’s collection at the judging session of the Hong Kong Young Design Talent Award (YDTA) 2016 where he became one of the winners. At HKDI’s annual fashion event “New Fashion Force”, Woolmark spotted the collection again as the「DesignXcel」team approached Brian Tam, Project Manager (Fashion & Marketing HK) for potential collaboration with Wilson.

“The Stolen Soul” is inspired by the movie “Ondsken” (literally “evil”), a disturbing movie that portrays ritualistic bullying and loneliness in a Swedish private school during the 1950s. To hint at the undercurrents of traditional education, Wilson purposefully analysed many school uniform designs, dressing styles and details of Swedish teenagers in the 1950s, hoping to raise public concerns to re-examine the problems of school violence and bullying through his collection. It is with such socially responsible fashion statement that the three companies decided to sponsor Wilson’s collection.

After an official appointment prompted by「DesignXcel」for Wilson and Woolmark, he gained the full support from Woolmark’s Wool Resource Centre (WRC) to access suppliers of Merino wool from all around the world for different wool fabrics. As Tat Fai Zipper’s sponsorship easily fixed the collection’s demand for zippers, Wilson’s primary challenge lied in technical insufficiency as he has a clear orientation to merge new technologies with fashion. Yet thanks to Framis Italia’s advanced technologies of bonding tape, he managed to gain accurate control of temperature, pressure, time and fabric, and was able to do lots of testing and experiment with advanced machines for his seamless accessory design such as the pockets and scarf to express his pursuit of high-tech fashion.

Against the traditional canvas of the signature navy and khaki school uniform of cardigan, Wilson reinforced that little patch of red double stripes not for the school emblem but the opposite. The two remarkable red lines actually symbolise the strokes when rebellious young people express their grievances through street graffiti. Just as the oversized silhouettes of his jackets may hide all the intended layers underneath, he wishes to draw people’s attention to the phenomenon of school bullying with the bloody stripes right in your face.

The Woolmark Company 於「香港青年設計才俊獎2016」的評審環節首次遇上設計畢業生蔡鴻成的設計系列,後來他成為得獎者之一。其後於香港知專設計學院年度時裝活動「新勢力時裝表演」中,《設計列陣》團隊為The Woolmark Company 項目經理(時裝及營銷)譚志先生舉薦蔡同學的系列以推展合作項目,兩者因而再次碰面。

「The Stolen Soul」系列啟發自瑞典電影《壞孩子》(瑞典語「邪惡」),電影描述於五十年代一所瑞典私人學校中的儀式化欺凌及這問題帶來的無限孤寂。蔡同學花了不少時間分析不同學校的校服設計、五十年代瑞典青少年的衣着風格及細節等,希望透過這個系列的設計,探討值得社會關注和反思校園暴力以及欺凌等人性議題,喻意傳統教育制度下蘊藏暗湧。正是這具備社會責任的時尚主張令三家不同的公司決定贊助他的系列。

《設計列陣》團隊為蔡同學及The Woolmark Company安排正式會面後,蔡得到The Woolmark Company資源中心的全力支援,並獲得聯繫世界各地羊毛布料供應商的資料。再加上達輝拉鏈贊助了系列所需的拉鏈,系列制作就只剩下技術困難了。蔡同學在設計方面有一個鮮明的取向,就是將時裝與創新科技結合。有了Framis Italia所提供的先進聚氨酯熱熔粘接技術,蔡同學成功有效地控制溫度、壓力、時間及布料,亦能使用先進儀器作不同測試和實驗以制作其無縫設計,如口袋和頸巾,充分表達了他對高科技時裝的追求。

有別於傳統常以軍藍色和卡其色作象徵性的制服布料,蔡同學卻故意突出了那一小塊的紅色雙間條紋。而那紅色的筆觸線條就像叛逆少年通過街頭塗鴉去宣洩悲憤一樣的存在。過大的外套隱藏掉底下的所有層次,如同在社會中被掩蓋的學校欺凌問題,他希望能通過突出如將血色活現眼前的條紋,帶起人民對此問題的關注。

Design Graduate:

Choi Hung Shing, Wilson | 蔡鴻成

Collaborator:

Framis Italia HK Ltd.

Lane Crawford 連卡佛

Tat Fai Zipper Company Ltd. 達輝拉鍊有限公司

The Woolmark Company

Email:

wilsonchoi.chs@gmail.com

School:

Fashion & Image Design | Hong Kong Design Institute | Nottingham Trent University

香港知專設計學院, 英國諾丁漢特倫特大學 (NTU)