The Stolen Soul
Autumn/Winter 17/18 Menswear
Guided by his passion for fashion and the professional training from school tutors, the design graduate Wilson Choi has been awarded multiple times, including the sponsored collection(s) accepted by Lane Crawford, Framis Italia and Tat Fai Zipper Company Ltd. through the recommendations of tutors. The Woolmark Company first came across Wilson Choi’s collection “The Stolen Soul” at the judging session of the Hong Kong Young Design Talent Award (YDTA) 2016, and they have since fallen in love with his work.
“The Stolen Soul” is inspired by the movie “Ondsken” (literally “evil”), a disturbing movie that portrays ritualistic bullying and loneliness in a Swedish private school during the 1950s. To hint at the undercurrents of traditional education, Wilson purposefully analysed many school uniform designs, dressing styles and details of Swedish teenagers in the 1950s, hoping to raise public concerns to re-examine the problems of school violence and bullying through his collection. It is with such socially responsible fashion statement that Wilson’s collection has received so much support.
The other direction of Wilson’s fashion is as distinct – the combination of fashion and innovative technology. Thanks to Framis Italia’s advanced technologies of bonding tape, he managed to gain accurate control of temperature, pressure, time and fabric, and was able to do lots of testing and experiment with advanced machines for his seamless accessory design such as the pockets and scarf to express his pursuit of high-tech fashion to support his philosophy on social responsibilities.
Against the traditional canvas of the signature navy and khaki school uniform of cardigan, Wilson reinforced that little patch of red double stripes not for the school emblem but the opposite. The two remarkable red lines actually symbolise the strokes when rebellious young people express their grievances through street graffiti. Just as the oversized silhouettes of his jackets may hide all the intended layers underneath, he wishes to draw people’s attention to the phenomenon of school bullying with the bloody stripes right in your face.
The「DesignXcel」team met Brian Tam, Project Manager (Fashion & Marketing) of The Woolmark Company once by chance. Both came across the topic of HKDI’s annual fashion event “New Fashion Force” during the show, where another collection from Wilson was spotted for potential collaboration. This is how the two were brought together once again. Wilson has thus gained the full support from Woolmark’s Wool Resource Centre (WRC) to access suppliers of Merino wool from all around the world for different wool fabrics. It is much anticipated and believed that in the near future, his new collection will seamlessly incorporate the wool fabrics with innovative technologies.
憑著對時裝的熱愛，經導師的指導在院校的磨練，設計畢業生蔡鴻成得到多個獎項，包括連卡佛, Framis Italia 和達輝拉鍊有限公司接受設計院校導師的推薦贊助他的系列。The Woolmark Company於「香港青年設計才俊獎2016」的評審環節首次遇上蔡的「The Stolen Soul」系列，亦非常喜愛其作品。
「The Stolen Soul」系列啟發自瑞典電影《壞孩子》（瑞典語「邪惡」），電影描述於五十年代一所瑞典私人學校中的儀式化欺凌及這問題帶來的無限孤寂。蔡花了不少時間分析不同學校的校服設計、五十年代瑞典青少年的衣着風格及細節等，希望透過這個系列的設計，探討值得社會關注和反思校園暴力以及欺凌等人性議題，喻意傳統教育制度下蘊藏暗湧。
蔡的另一設計方向也很鮮明 — 是如何結合時裝與創新科技。Framis Italia所提供的先進聚氨酯熱熔粘接技術，讓蔡成功控制溫度、壓力、時間及布料，亦能利用先進儀器作不同測試和實驗以製作其無縫設計，如口袋和頸巾，充分表達他如何靈活運用高科技追求去支持時裝肩負社會責任的理念。
《設計列陣》團隊在某之次與The Woolmark Company項目經理（時裝及營銷)譚志先生談話中提及於香港知專設計學院的「新勢力時裝表演」中見到蔡的另一系列，繼而探索任何可以進一步推展合作的可行性，因而兩者再次碰面；蔡獲得The Woolmark Company資源中心全力支援，並與能聯繫世界各地羊毛布料供應商。相信不久的未來，蔡的新時裝系列將利用羊毛布料的特性結合創新科技，大家拭目以待。
Choi Hung Shing, Wilson | 蔡鴻成
Framis Italia HK Ltd.
Lane Crawford 連卡佛
Tat Fai Zipper Company Ltd. 達輝拉鍊有限公司
The Woolmark Company
Fashion & Image Design | School for Higher and Professional Education | Nottingham Trent University
才晉高等教育學院 (SHAPE), 英國諾丁漢特倫特大學 (NTU)