Birthmark | 印記 | Autumn Winter 2018 Menswear 2017-09-22T06:14:24+00:00

Project Description

Birthmark | 印記

Autumn Winter 2018 Menswear

Description:

Kin Yan’s works first made an impression to Brian Tam, Project Manager (Fashion & Marketing) of The Woolmark Company as the winner of the Hong Kong Young Design Talent Award (YDTA) 2016. However, their collaboration only came to life when the「DesignXcel」project team took the critical step to schedule the first meeting for them at Woolmark’s Wool Resource Centre (WRC) in Kwun Tong. Introducing different wool trends and applications, Brian shared exciting R&D and archive of the Merino wool fabrics and products from international suppliers, which are compiled thematically by the Woolmark platform in areas of sports, athleisure, denim and many more.

As HKDI’s first runner-up and Best Knitwear awardee in 2016, Kin Yin has been particularly interested in exploring the characteristics and contemporary use of wool, a traditional material for clothing. This is where Woolmark’s supplies of fabrics kicked in to aid. In his latest collection “Birthmark”, he creates a nostalgic and timeless air through the use of insulative wool with quilted technique: as heat is preserved, so our history remains as our birthmark stays on the human body.

Drawing his inspirations on the then internationally renowned Ho Fan’s photography of lights and shades, Kin Yan revisits the simple lifestyle and everyday outfits of Hong Kong people from the 1950s to 1970s. He also alludes to conventional Chinese robe, vest, pleats and the faded tone, and incorporates these details onto his loose tops and boxy bottoms, creating a collection of vintage and modern fashion that conserves as well as renews.

The Woolmark Company項目經理(時裝及營銷)譚志先生首次對設計畢業生林健仁的作品留下深刻印象,是因為它於「香港青年設計才俊獎2016」中勝出。可是,直至《設計列陣》項目團隊為他們築起橋樑,在位於觀塘的The Woolmark Company資源中心安排他們首次會面後,雙方合作才得以落實。譚志先生介紹了林林總總不同羊毛物料的市場趨勢和應用方法,亦分享了各種有趣的研發項目及從世界各地供應商收集得來的美麗諾羊毛成份布料。其羊毛布料經由The Woolmark Company這個平台分類整合,種類繁多,有運動類、運動時裝類至牛仔布類及其他。

作為香港知專設計學院2016年亞軍及最佳針織作品得主,林同學對羊毛這種傳統物料有濃厚興趣,針對不同羊毛特性及近年嶄新應用方法作出研究及嘗試。而國際羊毛局的物料供應則對林有很大幫助。在他的最新系列《印記》中,他以絎縫技巧配合保暖羊毛締造出具有懷舊感覺而又經得起時間考驗的作品。就如穿上保暖的羊毛能鎖住溫度,故事和歷史亦會像印記一樣留在我們的身體裏。

受到國際知名攝影師何藩的光影作品所啟發,林在創作時考量了五十至七十年代間香港的簡單生活模式及日常裝束。他亦在其作品如寬鬆上衣及闊腳褲子中,加入了傳統中式繩結、馬甲背心、褶子及褪色的色調等元素,創造了一個融合古典美及現代感的時裝系列,既能保存過去,亦可帶出革新意味。

Design Graduate:

Lam Kin Yan | 林健仁

Collaborator:

Lane Crawford | 連卡佛

The Woolmark Company

Email:

kinyannlamm@gmail.com

School:

Fashion & Image Design | Hong Kong Design Institute, Nottingham Trent University

香港知專設計學院, 英國諾丁漢特倫特大學 (NTU)